“All Refrigerator” Keggerator Build

Recently my Craigslist Keezer buy started going down hill. It wasn’t maintaining temperature. While it had served me well for a couple of years, I was struggling a lot with juggling kegs and having loose items falling all over in there. It was time for something with capacity for more than 4 kegs, and room for more bottled beer and related items.

I started researching options for the build. I initially planned on building it around a larger chest freezer. Since I was going to be putting the work into customization, I planned on starting with a new appliance so I could count on it lasting a while. It was about this time I happened onto something called an “all refrigerator”. It is the form factor of a traditional upright refrigerator, but it doesn’t have a freezer compartment. This had several advantages over other options. One of the biggest is that it’s made to work at refrigerator temperatures. Not only does that elimante the need for an add on temperature controller, but it also means there are no condensation issues to deal with. As much as I liked my keezer, the messing around with fans and dehumidifier to try to keep it dry was a pain.

I settled on a Figidaire (Model FFRU17G8QWC) refrigerator similar to this one, but the model number is different for some reason. It has room for up to 12 corny kegs if need be, this would take a little modification including shaving off some of the door shelving and creating as stronger upper shelf to hold 6 kegs. For now I am happy with the 5 kegs fitting on th floor of the unit. This leaves two of the the factory glass shelves above for bottles and miscellaneous storage. (One of the big selling points for my CFO (wife) was that it could serve as overflow for our regular fridge for those extra large Costco trips.)

The build was pretty straight forward. It basically consisted of locating and drilling holes for the taps and gas lines. I also created a nice cherry wood panel to strengthen the tap mounting location, act as a backsplash, and hold the drip tray so I didn’t have to drill more holes in the door. It also really dresses up the front of the unit. I decided to size it for 4 taps for now. There would be room on the front for up to 8 taps if I want to expand to that some day.

Photos of the build:

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I created some flanges with my 3D printer to make a tight fit for the gas lines. These are made with flexible plastic so they create a pretty good seal against the brass pipes that go through the back wall. The flanges are silicone sealed against the refrigerator walls, but only slip fit against the brass fittings.
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View of the gas line valves from the inside of the unit. One is for CO2 and one is for beer gas.
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I cut a shelf for the drip tray from an old stainless steel BBQ grill panel I had laying around. I finished it with a swirl pattern using a 4″ grinder and a flapper sanding disk.
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This shows the thickness of the metal and the insulation in the refrigerator door. These were drilled with a hole saw. I started on the outside, drilled through far enough to let the center bit come through the inside face, then finished the hole from the inside to get a clean finish on the hole.

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3D printed “bushings” were created to give the shanks a solid base to tighten against. The holes were oversized to accommodate the pieces. These pieces were silicone sealed on the inside flange.
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Using my Shopsmith as a machining tool to rout out the back for the drip tray shelf.
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The drip tray is fastened into a recess on the back of the wood splash guard with Velcro strips.
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The drip tray ISD fastened to the splash guard with sticky back Velcro. The stray is also held in place against the door by the shanks which are fastened through the wood.
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Drilling the holes for the shanks.

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This shows all four taps mounted including the stout faucet. My next project will have to be new tap handles. I have a design for 3D printed handles that will allow inserting custom labels using baseball card sleeves.
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In order to minimize holes and fasteners in the refrigerator I used industrial strength Velcro on the regulator and drip tray. These are acrylic plates I made to mount the regulator to. These plates give a place for the sticky back Velcro to attach. A corresponding strip of Velcro goes on the inside of the door.
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I picked up this secondary regulator from an online sale. CO2 is fed to the system at 30 psi from my primary regulator outside of the keggerator. I backed the pressure down to 20psi. I found that at 30psi I was loosing CO2 somewhere in the system. At the lower pressure it seems to seal itself up.